Jay and I peered together at our foldout map. On it the bold-faced, introduction-unnecessary place names (Herod’s Gate, Solomon’s Stables, Dome of the Rock, Western Wall) were packed together so plentifully it invited despair of ever seeing them all. Down near the bottom of our map, however—stark and alone but for an orbiting, italicized, and differently typeset Hinnom Valley—was our destination: Hakeldama.