Michael Snyder is a freelance journalist and associate editor for Roads & Kingdoms, based out of Mexico City. His work has appeared in the New York Times, Lucky Peach, the Believer, Slate, and Scientific American, among others.
The weekend of El Grito (the Scream), when Mexico celebrates its rebel yell against Spain, is also the weekend when the season’s first pilgrims arrive in the town of Real de Catorce, high on a sun-blitzed mountaintop in the deserts of San...